By Ruma Al-Mukhtar / Taif
In Saudi Arabia, roses are synonymous with the city of Taif, which is internationally famous for agriculture and in particular the cultivation and production of roses, dating back to 100 years. Stretched along the roads and streets of Taif are many vendors displaying cork boxes full of fragrant homegrown roses, fruits and other fresh produce.
In addition, the city produces rose essence and rose water, and every year the municipality and the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities organizes a rose festival, which is visited by both local and international tourists.
Despite the difficult conditions, such as scarcity of water and laborers during the rose cultivation season, the number of rose plantations reached 750 during the last year festival. These are mostly located in the cooler Al-Hada, Al-Shafa, Al-Dahia, and Al-Ghadeerain areas. Together, they produce around 233 million roses and comprise 34 factories for the plantation of roses and production of 19,000 bottles of rose essence.
The planting of roses usually coincides with the end of the month of January and lasts up to 75 days. Planters start with digging groves in the plantation soil, in which carefully cut rose branches are planted, covered in rich fertilizer and manually watered in times of rain scarcity. They carefully plant the rose branches close to the earth and make sure they do not exceed 1.5 meters in height, which makes it necessary to trim them constantly. Keeping them low encourages the rose trees to produce as many roses as possible each morning. The flowers must be plucked before sunrise, when they are dewy and most fragrant. Every year, harvest time starts during the month of April and goes on until the end of May.
Rashid Al-Qurashi, owner of several rose plantations and rose products, asserts that there is no other rose like the Taif rose because of its strong delicious fragrance. Even the Syrian Juri rose, which is bigger and prettier, has not such a strong fragrant as the Taif rose.
Taif is also considered the favorite city to escape the hot summer days of Saudi Arabia. Situated atop the Sarawat Mountains, the visitors enjoy the cool weather and delicious fruits. They also make sure they don’t leave this cool, green and fragrant area without taking back home boxes of Taif roses, bottles of rose essence and rose water as mementos of a good and relaxing time spent in the pleasant parks of Al-Hada, Al-Shafa, Al-Ghadeer, and others.
As a first step, the roses are put into special pots. These are filled with water — the amount according to the quantity of roses used. Then, the pots are securely covered over a low burning fire. When the roses start to boil, the fragrant steam passes through a tube that is surrounded by cold water, so that the steam condenses and starts dripping into a special glass receptacle until a layer of rose oil appears on its surface. This is then carefully skimmed off the surface and quickly bottled. The process usually takes between ten to fourteen hours daily.
Unlike Oud oil, which develops a better fragrance and hence gets more expensive as it ages, rose essence should not be kept for a long time, as that affects the quality and devalues it, especially if exposed to light and heat. In order to prolong the life of rose essence, experts recommend removing the plastic stopper from its glass bottle, because with time the plastic interacts with the oil essence and ruins its purity.
Rose water is usually filled into large 20 liter glass bottles for a variety of uses, especially for the making of Arabic deserts, and can be added to drinking water.
There are two types of rose water: The ordinary kind that is sold in small glass bottles for SR10 in shops and supermarkets, and a more special type that is known as “Al-Aroosa” (the bride), which is distilled rose water resulting from the production of rose essence. This type is sold in small glass bottles that cost around SR30 and is the most preferred in the Gulf. People use it as a perfume at home and sprinkle it on guests, using traditional dainty rose water pewter sprinklers.
Women also use rose water as part of their beauty regime ever since its beneficial qualities were discovered, such as cleansing of the skin and tightening of the pores.
Taif is a city that offers a rich culture of history. It is situated on the eastern area of Al-Sarawat Mountains. It is known as the summer capital of Saudi Arabia as people escape the summer heat and flock to this cool, lush city that offers beautiful scenery in a relaxed atmosphere.
I always wanted to visit this place after hearing the never-ending stories of my father and grandmother who talk about how magical this place is. So I finally decided to see it for myself and of course I needed someone to show me the best places to go. My guide in this trip was Ali Alshamrani, guest relation manager at the InterContinental Taif, who showed me the real face of Taif.
Alshamrani said Taif is named after different Arabian tribes from around the Kingdom who used to gather here and enjoy the weather and exchange merchandise before visiting Makkah for Haj or Umrah.
Taif is indeed interesting; all you need to do is know where to go.
Taif’s attraction:
If you are not afraid of heights, then you should definitely take a trip to the second highest point in the Kingdom, Al-Shafa Mountain, and enjoy the fantastic fresh, cool mountain air. You will definitely love how quite the air is and get the opportunity to see the area from 2,200 to 2,500 meters above sea level. Al-Shafa is a small village that is rich in agriculture products. Many like to take camel rides to enjoy the culture to the max. Others like to picnic along with family and friends to enjoy the breezy weather away from the noise of the city.
Shubra Palace was built 150 years ago and it was the resident of Al-Shereif Abdullah Ben Oun but in 1949 King Abdulaziz bought it to be the Royal family’s summer house. The 155-room palace is today a museum that features historical photos of the old Hijaz along with authentic tools and money.
The Turkish Fort is another historical attraction that was once an Ottoman military base. It is located near the Rock Carvings and legends have it that Lawrence of Arabia fought here in 1917. You might be disappointed when you see it, for it is abandoned because the floor is covered with leftover food and trash, and the walls are defaced with graffiti. However, it is a magical place if you know its history.
Shopping in Taif is interesting; there are a number of great bargains at the old Souk Al-Balad. It used to be the gate of the old city of Taif. This is an old traditional souk where you will find small shops that offer everything from handmade merchandise to local honey, spices and ghee. A part of the souk is dedicated to gold and silver. You can get great deals from local salesmen who are very proud to show off their own designs from gold burqas to crowns made especially for brides-to-be. Another interesting shop sells traditional clothing for both men and women. If you don’t like the designs feel free to buy material and they will be more than happy to tailor for you. Just don’t forget to bargain for a better price.
If you are looking for more of an international shopping experience, then hit Shahar Street where you will find stand-alone boutiques and a one stop shopping mall. There are also international restaurants for you to choose from but I highly recommend the Romana restaurant and Bait Al-Tayebat restaurant, both of which offer a great variety of Arabian dishes. If you are looking for something more local, then you can try Al-Jouna or Al-Qaryah for they are known for the best Saudi food in town.
One of the best things to buy in Taif is organic fruit. The area is known for great berries, pomegranates, grapes, dates, peaches, watermelons and more. You can find fresh fruit stalls right off the local souk; feel free to try out free samples and fall in love with the real taste of Taif.
Souk Okaz is a unique tourist landmark and one of its kind in the Kingdom. The Souk Okaz of today is located in the same place as it was in the historical past. It is visited by a large number of tourists who wish to take a closer look at the historic Souk as it featured in the depths of the old Arab past.
The importance of the Souk lies in its historic symbolism as the original source of Arabic culture. It was the destination for ancient Arab intellectuals and poets and people passionate about culture and literature. Visitors today will enjoy a taste of culture that is one of its kind and offered by the organizers through a series of lectures, seminars and events that brings to mind the glorious Arab past with the authentic heritage values, particularly the Al-Mo’alagat (The Seven Golden Odes). Each version of the Souk Okaz celebrates one of the poets of the Al-Mo’alagat in an attempt to emphasize the important role of culture in linking the past with the present.
When you go to Taif, you have to pay Al-Hada Mountain a visit. It is known for its baboons that live on the sides of its highways. Some say they are dangerous and wild while others bring them fresh fruits every day. Al-Hada also has offers cable cars that will show you the extremely fantastic scenery of Taif’s Mountains. The cable car is the largest in Saudi Arabia and the Middle East; it will drop you in Al-Kar Tourist Village, which is mainly a water park area. “The ride is twenty minutes each way so remember to go early to avoid the long lines,” said Alshamrani.
Taif is famous throughout the Kingdom for making pure rose water and oil in a very basic and traditional way. AlShamrani took us to one of the biggest and oldest Taif Rose factories called Al-Qahdi which opened in 1982. This factory only operates in March and April every year, which is the season for roses in the Kingdom. The factory uses organic Taif pink roses and turns them into water and oil for sale. The process of making rose water starts with putting around 20,000 roses in a pot and adding 70 liters of drinking water into it. They then close the pot carefully and leave it to boil for 8 hours.
On the other side you will find a huge glass bottle where the water pours into. Once done, you will find an amount of aromatic oil settled on top of the water. The oil is bottled and sold for around SR1,500. Make sure you get yourself rose water bottles that cost only SR50, a great gift for anyone; Hejazi people add drops of rose water to their chilled drinking water and enjoy the aromatic taste.
The National Museum is another interesting place to visit, a venue that showcases the old life before technology in Saudi Arabia. You will find items that used to be used for different professions along with old cars and other interesting items that were used by Bedouins in the desert.
Last but not least is the famous Al-Massara International Equestrian Center that offers many interesting learning programs for everyone. The center was found in 1982 and is reputed to be one of the largest horseback riding centers in the Middle East. It is also an auction house for Arabian horses. The center holds horse beauty pageants and more. You can book a session with one of the coaches that will teach you everything you need to know about horses and the techniques for being a professional equestrian; the center is also an academy that offers certificates to horseback riders.
Where to stay:
InterContinental hotel in Taif is only 15 minutes drive from the airport. It was built in 1978 and is the hotel that welcomes all Royal family members and businessmen on their visits to the area. It has 155 rooms and suites and 42 private villas. It also has one buffet restaurant that offers International, Arabian and great Saudi cuisine that cannot be missed. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
I loved this hotel for its spaciousness; even though the hotel was fully booked I could hardly notice the crowd. The InterContinental offers two huge ballrooms where it is known to host group weddings organized by local charities in Taif. The hotel is very big on social responsibility. So, on your next visit you might see one of the fun activities offered by the hotel to any welfare society in the area.
The InterContinental in Taif is perfect for the disabled as they have a number of rooms especially equipped with emergency buttons, special lights and vibrations for different kinds of disabilities.
The hotel’s spacious corridors offer natural sunlight to make you feel at home. Knowing Taif’s weather, you will enjoy the outdoor pool area where you can have a cup of coffee or snacks and enjoy the greenery and the beautiful pool. There is also a kids club where your children can play safe and you can see them through a glass window while you are enjoying your pool snack.
I like to describe the hotel as vintage; it makes you think of the 1970s because my room has a vintage radio as a bedside table and other items that reflects the old and the new at the same time. The rooms are spacious and designed in a French style with the antiques tables and earthy colored furniture.
When going to Taif, you have to take your camera with you because everything looks like desktop wallpaper and you will want to save this memory. Ask the concierge to book you a car to tour the area.
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